Over the next few days, from May 7th to 14th, Rome will host four international events (zkSummit, ZKProof, Eurocrypt, Zcash Dev Summit), and I know many of you will be in the city. I was born and lived there for my first 30 years of life, I won’t be able to meet you in person (I’ve lived in another city for years), but I’m happy to share with you the places I care about most (and the foods I prefer). This is an opinionated mini travel guide that deliberately omits the most popular attractions (and foods).
Circo Massimo - Roseto comunale - Colle Aventino
May is the perfect time to enjoy the blooming roses and in the Roseto Municipale you will be surrounded by their scent, while relaxing in the shade looking down on Circo Massimo. Then I recommend you two steps on Colle Aventino, where you will find the small and beautiful Giardino degli Aranci with the terrace on the roofs of the city and the famous gate of the Priorato dei Cavalieri di Malta with its keyhole. If you like dance, there is also the Accademia Nazionale di Danza, which could do free evening performances. If you have time, it can be interesting to stop by the nearby Terme di Caracalla and the adjacent Villa Celimontana.
Quartiere Coppedè and Villa Torlonia
If you’re interested in architecture and urban planning, the Quartiere Coppedè is a must-see: very extravagant Art Nouveau buildings with esoteric influences. Also fascinating is the nearby Casina delle Civette in Villa Torlonia, with its alternative geometries and hermetic symbolism.
Cimitero acattolico and Piramide
Imagine yourself sitting in the shade of a tree in a hidden garden, with John Keats’ tombstone beside you, an Egyptian pyramid before your eyes, and a cat’s soft fur between your fingers. A magical place suspended in time.
Città universitaria of Sapienza University
Many of the historical faculties of Rome’s Sapienza University are located in a citadel right in the center. If you’re passing through on a weekday, it’s worth crossing it and checking out the historic buildings, such as the Physics one. You might also meet the nobel Parisi who still has his office on the first floor there.
Isola tiberina and Lungotevere
Descend to the base of Isola Tiberina and make your way around the water. Then return to the road, descend to the base of the embankment and walk north to Castel Sant’Angelo. Go up and go just a little further and you will find an unexpected Gothic church wedged between two buildings. Walk along the Palazzaccio and relax in Piazza Cavour with an ice cream. Return to Castel Sant’Angelo, then Via della Conciliazione to San Pietro.
From Rione Monti to Villa Borghese
From Termini (perhaps after lunch at the Mercato Centrale), descend towards Santa Maria Maggiore and from there walk through the alleys of Rione Monti to the Colosseo, then walk through all the Fori Imperiali (I recommend visiting) and reach Piazza Venezia. If you have time, go up to the Campidoglio to see the forums from above. Then take Via del Corso to Piazza del Popolo. From there go up to the Pincio terrace and enjoy the gardens of Villa Borghese.
From Castel Sant’Angelo to Pantheon
From Castel Sant’Angelo cross the Tevere river and take Via Giulia until you reach Palazzo Farnese. From there cross Campo de’ Fiori and follow via Arenula until Piazza di Torre Argentina, then continue to the Pantheon. From there lose yourself in the alleys of the historic center.
From Fontanone to Trastevere
From Fontanone, take the Passeggiata del Gianicolo (watch out for the two panoramic terraces) and if it’s midday, wait for the cannon shot. Descend to the Lungotevere and take Via della Lungara (if you have time the botanical garden is a wonderful natural oasis). Enter Trastevere and get lost in the alleys (late afternoon / evening recommended).
Ghetto ebraico (Jewish ghetto)
In the late afternoon until sunset it is a magical place and you eat very well.
Mercato trionfale
The largest covered farmers market in the city, a joy for all five senses. A unique socio-gastronomic experience. Don’t be afraid to ask to taste!
Museums
If you have time for a museum, these are my three tips in order of preference: 1) Galleria Borghese (Canova put the sublime in marble), 2) Vatican museums and gardens, 3) MAXXI with its all-curved structure.
Other
If you like jazz, check out the evening programming at the Casa del Jazz, a beautiful villa with a park in the shadow of the ancient walls confiscated from organized crime.
Walk and picnic in the Parco degli Acquedotti among the imposing columns of the ancient Acquedotto Claudio.
Walk and take an ice cream on the shores of the Laghetto dell’EUR (see the cherry garden), the triumph of rationalist architecture.
If you like to run early in the morning or late afternoon, Villa Pamphilj is perfect, but Rome is full of suitable green areas, look for the closest one to you.
If you love pizza and want to experiment, Bonci’s Pizzarium is a must. Also worth trying are Trapizzini in Testaccio, Trastevere, or Termini. Typical of Rome is the special Pinsa dough (I recommend Pinsa 'mpò). Supplì is a must (the best is at Supplizio).
For desserts, a cream bomb or fried donut and cappuccino is a must for breakfast. After a meal I recommend an ice cream (better if artisanal, look for ice cream makers with a workshop) or a tiramisu (the best is by Pompi).
If you love meat and are daredevil, the SantoPalato is a greedy challenge. Porchetta is a must-have, preferably the original from Ariccia, the secret is the crispy rind.
If you love beer, you need to taste Baladin’s open-source production at the eponymous brewery (Open Baladin) and visit the Antica Birreria Peroni.
Other interesting places outside the city: fraschette (typical restaurants) in Ariccia, a lake-view restaurant in Castel Gandolfo, a seafood restaurant on a beach in Ostia or in the port of Fiumicino.
Other foods / ingredients that I love, excluding the most famous:
- carciofi (artichokes) alla giudia, alla romana, con patate,
- pollo (chicken) alla cacciatora (very good inside a Trapizzino),
- cicoria (chicory) ripassata,
- puntarelle alla romana,
- salsiccia (sausage) e broccoli,
- pane (bread) di Lariano e Genzano,
- scrocchiarella (scrunchy pizza),
- bruschetta of all kinds.
And if you have any sauce left on your plate, don’t forget to always clean it with a nice scarpetta.
Enjoy and let me know your experiences! 